Discover Bosnia & Herzegovina!
With the arrival of summer, the roads of Europe come alive with travellers. Witnessing people taking a break from their daily routines is truly a delight. Live life, as if there's no tomorrow.
We chose Bosnia & Herzegovina for one of our summer breaks. Bosnia & Herzegovina is nothing less than a visual delight. I am sure that more than half of the world still perceives this corner of the Balkan region as unsafe to visit. It has been 30 years since the country was devastated, and I can assure you, it is now absolutely safe and is now as beautiful as any other European destination.
Find the complete itinerary of Bosnia & Herzegovina, including stay options, in the link below:
A true Balkan country with hills and mountains all around, Bosnia & Herzegovina has a landscape that’s 24% hills, 42% mountains, 29% karst region and 5% lowlands. Forests, rivers, mountains, meadows, and cute villages!
The country is a federation of two entities which was created post the infamous Bosnian war, Bosnia(Bosniak majority) and Herzegovina (Bosniak and Croat majority), and there’s a third unique entity Republika Srpska (Serb majority).
Well, complex political situation for such a beautiful country! Bosnia-Herzegovina has a true Balkan landscape, consisting of mountains, meadows, and rivers. We spent almost 7 days in 3 key towns of the country. Oh, what a beauty!
One fine evening, the day we met Bosnian coffee for the first time, unable to figure something we thought to ask a bunch of youngsters sitting right next to us. We ended up chatting with them and understood that they are Bosnians who had left their country during the war to settle down in Austria for good. But they visit their motherland every year during summer. Realising that we are Indians they were all praise for us, and cried out "You are so cool to have chosen our country. Nobody wants to come here, except from a handful Western European countries and of course the Arab world." Well, I thought it was a pretty cool decision we made.
Welcome to Sarajevo!
SARAJEVO
Our first city to explore was Sarajevo, the capital of Bosnia and Herzegovina. Sarajevo is a beautiful city located in the Sarajevo valley, in the middle of the Dinaric Alps. The Miljacka River passes through the centre of the city. Sarajevo is a perfect example of a potpourri of different cultures, where the east meets the west. Due to its long history of religious and cultural diversity, Sarajevo is sometimes called the "Jerusalem of Europe" or "Jerusalem of the Balkans"
There is something special about this city, it has the power to touch your soul. The city has risen from the ashes of its past like a phoenix and oh what a sight it beholds!
At the centre of the old town lies Baščaršija, the oldest bazaar of Sarajevo and the historical and cultural centre of the city. This is the place where we ended up spending most of our time there. It was irresistibly beautiful.
Baščaršija was built in the 15th century. After some wandering around and curio shopping at Baščaršija, it was time to enjoy Bosnian coffee in the most authentic way.
Bosnian coffee deserves more than a few words. The way it is served is an experience in itself. Very close to and yet not similar to Turkish coffee, Bosnian coffee is traditionally made in an ibrik or džezva, a small copper pot with a high neck and a long handle. The coffee is served in the ibrik, with a mug, and a pile of sugar cubes and a small jelly candy, on the side! I am not a big fan of black coffee but I was almost living on this one. The presentation is as wonderful as the coffee.
What all can you do in Sarajevo?
1. Take a tour of Sarajevo city hall, known as Vijećnica.
It was designed in 1891 and was initially the largest and most representative building of the Austro-Hungarian period in Sarajevo and served as the city hall. In 1949, this building was handed over to the National and University Library of Bosnia and Herzegovina and till the time of the 90’s war, the library held 1.5 million volumes and over 155,000 rare books and manuscripts.
It is the current seat and headquarters of the Mayor of Sarajevo, as well as the Sarajevo City Council.
2. Walk on the historical bridges of Sarajevo and get some goosebumps. Let’s talk about the famous Latin Bridge.
Do you know the story of the origin of WWI? Well, the story of its origin lies in the heart of Sarajevo, at the corner of the same Latin bridge, which was the site of the assassination of Archduke Franz Ferdinand of Austria 1914. This event ultimately led to the outbreak of World War I.
Built in the 16th century, the Latin Bridge is one of the oldest Ottoman bridges over the river Miljacka in Sarajevo, Bosnia and Herzegovina.
3. Visit the various museums of Sarajevo, split between history & culture, art & literature, Olympics, and the war, symbolising the resilience of the city and its citizens.
Just a word of caution, if you choose to visit the war museums, please be sure to come out with a heavy heart. We specifically chose Siege of Sarajevo Museum and Tunnel of Hope.
Siege of Sarajevo Museum is a very heart touching experience, with a display of real life stories and the last remnants of everything that can be called life, just before the siege destroyed it.
Tunnel of Hope was constructed between March and June 1993 during the Siege of Sarajevo amid the Bosnian War. This tunnel was the only connection that Sarajevo had with the outside world during those years of war. The tunnel allowed food, war supplies, and humanitarian aid to come into the city, and people to get out. After the war, about 20 meters of the tunnel became part of a museum which contains many items from the time of the Siege of Sarajevo – the longest-running siege of any city in modern history.
Being inside the tunnel definitely gave me goosebumps. It is an amazing symbol of human resilience and hope.
4. Check out the remnants of Olympic Games '84. Take the cable car to Trebevic, and reach the bobsled track that was created for the Olympics. Now of course it is abandoned.
5. Drive up the surrounding mountains and admire the beauty of the city from the top.
6. Check out the various places of worship and get some spiritual peace and calm.
Ali Pasha's Mosque
Emperor's Mosque
Gazi Husrev-beg Mosque
Cathedral of the Nativity of the Theotokos
Church of the Holy Transfiguration
Old Orthodox Church
Sacred Heart Cathedral
Saint Joseph's Church
Sarajevo Synagogue
7. Spend some leisurely evenings in the cafes and pubs on the European side of Sarajevo old town.
8. Relax near the Sebilj, the pride of Baščaršija.
Once there used to be hundreds of sebiljs (kiosk-shaped public fountains) in Sarajevo during the Ottoman era, but today the last one is found on Baščaršija Square, where it serves as a major symbol of the city’s glorious past.
With the liberation of Sarajevo in 1945 there were plans to demolish this old town market as it would not sync with the modern world but the plans never saw the day of light and the buildings were left standing and thank God for that! If every city looks like an exact replica of the other then all the fun of exploration dies.
9. Other than this you can just walk around the neighbourhood, walk up the narrow streets to feel the vibe of the place.
10. Sarajevo – meeting of cultures
This is a unique concept in Sarajevo. It is one of the rare cities where you can literally walk from one world to another, between different cultures, religions, history, and heritage.
Sarajevo has always been the melting point of cultures, of different empires and eras. This point marks the exact location where one can literally step from one empire to another. It takes just one step to move from the Austro-Hungarian to Ottoman Empire, from grand, multi-story structures to small wooden shops, with architecture so distinct that no one can miss this thin line that separates two cultures, in spite of the constant movement of crowd.
11. Check out the source of Bosna river at Vrelo Bosne,
a public park and a protected Nature Monument, featuring the system of numerous springs at the foothills of Mount Igman, in the municipality of Ilidža, just on the outskirts of Sarajevo. The place is idyllic with multiple streams and little arched bridges all over. It’s definitely a great source of a quiet escape from city life, at a very short distance from Sarajevo.
People
People are the most loving and warm that I have ever met. There is a unique warmth in the whole city, people being the key reason behind it. You will always be welcomed by smiling faces. Even if language may be a barrier sometimes, that doesn’t stop anyone from expressing warmth and compassion for others. We could just understand each other. I think this is a universal phenomenon everywhere, compassion and kindness is beyond the boundaries and barriers of language.
To know more about Sarajevo, check out my exclusive blog on this beautiful city.
Sarajevo, a Soulful Sojourn!
LUKOMIR
We missed to see an excellent place, the highest and the most remote village of Bosnia, Lukomir. Only if you have enough time in hand and the weather looks good then do remember to check this place out. It is heavenly up there. But part of the road is gravel road so it will be better to drive up to Lukomir, only if the weather is good. You can visit this place as a day trip or even plan to spend a night there. Of course then you will get a chance to gaze at the million stars above you, as you lay down there, embracing the peace and serenity of the place.
Visiting this place is highly suggested in summer season.
MOSTAR
We started our journey to Mostar which is some 2 hours away from Sarajevo. Our drive to Mostar leaves us in awe of the view. We drive alongside river Neretva from the town of Konjic. With huge peaks and canyons on the way, and a 360 degree view of sheer beauty, the drive feels shorter than reality.
Mostar is a picturesque town, a bit surreal. Every frame looks like a postcard.
Find the complete itinerary of Bosnia & Herzegovina including stay options in the link below:
The world famous Mostar bridge! A jewel of Ottoman architecture, Stari Most (Old Bridge), was built in 1566! Sadly, what we see now is only a replica of the original bridge. On 9 November 1993, after relentless shelling, the whole bridge disintegrated and fell into the Neretva River. The international community was appalled.
Till then the bridge was never damaged, destroyed, nor rebuilt, the solidity of the construction was such that it supported the passage of Nazi tanks during the Second World War. The bridge stood tall from 1566 till 1993. Wasn’t it an architectural marvel?
The stone blocks for the new bridge came from the same local quarry used in the 16th century for the original construction. The bridge was painstakingly rebuilt as it was originally. The Old Bridge Area of the Old City of Mostar was inscribed on the World Heritage List in July 2005.
You can’t miss the stone from the original bridge sitting quietly in a corner at the beginning of the bridge, saying ‘Don’t forget 93’. I partially agree to it. The horrors of the past will continue to haunt but let the bitterness not pass on from generation to generation. And simultaneously never forget the evil action of mankind so that you are conscientious enough to prevent any such thing in future. It’s a beautiful world. Let’s spread love and kindness, and create a world of compassion for all. And let’s protect OUR heritage as if it’s one of us.
The whole area around Stari Most has a unique ancient charm. It looks like a different world altogether.
Things to do in Mostar
Experience the famous Mostar bridge, walk on it, watch the divers doing their diving stunt, absorb all the beauty!
Check out Kriva Ćuprija or the ‘Crooked Bridge’. It was just opposite to our hotel and hence the hotel is named so. The bridge is oldest one arch bridge in Mostar, built in 1558 during the Ottoman rule and is part of UNESCO heritage site. Rather the whole of the old town around Mostar bridge is under the protection of UNESCO. It is said that this bridge was built as a model bridge by the Ottomans before venturing the bigger format, which became the famous Mostar bridge.
Visit the old bridge museum (Muzej Stari Most) at the at the eastern end of the bridge.
Walk around the old town area.
Buy curios from Mostar old bazaar. (Bazar Kujundžiluk)
Halebija Tower on the western side of Stari Most is a beautiful landmark. It has a small Bosnian coffee house and a few souvenir shops and allows a wonderful view of the diving stunts.
Koski-Mehmed Pasha Mosque
Museum Of War And Genocide Victims only if you are comfortable with it.
Biscevic House and Muslibegovic House, Turkish home museum.
Do a day trip to Kravica Waterfall
TREBINJE
We start for Trebinje, a city and municipality in Republika Srpska, Bosnia and Herzegovina. To note, the country is divided into two entities: the Federation of Bosnia and Herzegovina and Republika Srpska. Trebinje is part of Republika Srpska, the southernmost city in Bosnia and Herzegovina, situated on the banks of Trebišnjica river in the region of East Herzegovina.
Trebinje is a peaceful, charming, little town and 2 days should be good enough for this place. As any other place it has a beautiful centre and old town area. The old town is split into two sides, the old Ottoman era side and the new European side. We personally loved the vibes of the Ottoman era side. The European side felt little quieter.
What all can you do here?
Walk through the streets of Trebinje to get a feel of the place.
Relax in the old town area where there are tons of cafes and restaurants.
Visit the hill top churches like Hercegovačka Gračanica, Crkva sv. Arhangela Mihaila.
Visit Church of Holy Transfiguraton.
Visit Hercegovina Museum.
Stroll by the river side and relax at the river side cafes.
Visit Arslanagica Bridge
Arslanagica Bridge
A 16th-century architectural masterpiece - Arslanagića Bridge - another marvel from the Ottoman era! What makes this architectural monument so fascinating is its mere age. It was built in 1574.
This bridge was relocated piece by piece from another position. In 1965, the bridge on the Trebišnjica River got badly flooded and hence to preserve this historical piece it had to be dismantled stone by stone and moved to a new location.
Walking on this bridge gave goosebumps. It is fascinating piece of history. A little bit more attention to this tourist attraction by the administration would be great.
Sutjeska National Park
We started heading back to Bulgaria via Serbia. But on way comes some interesting places like The Sutjeska National Park, Foča, Višegrad, all beautiful destinations, all fall in the Republika Srpska territory.
The Sutjeska National Park is a national park, which was established in 1962. It is Bosnia and Herzegovina's oldest national park. Perućica forest reserve, located within the national park is one of the last two remaining primeval forests in Europe, and is one of the five Strict Nature Reserves in Bosnia and Herzegovina. It is a highly suggested place for nature and hiking lovers.
Višegrad
We had lunch at Foča, a beautiful little town. The next big town after Foča is Višegrad.
The town is well known for its UNESCO World Heritage Site, Mehmed Paša Sokolović Bridge, and the poet Ivo Andrić, Nobel prize winner in 1961 for the novel The Bridge over the Drina.
Mehmed Paša Sokolović Bridge is a historical masterpiece. It was completed in1577. UNESCO included the bridge in its 2007 World Heritage List.
Andrićgrad is a small town within the town Višegrad which was created by film director Emir Kusturica. The town is dedicated to the Yugoslav novelist and Nobel Prize for Literature laureate Ivo Andrić. There are cafes, restaurants, souvenir shops inside the complex.
Find the complete itinerary of Bosnia & Herzegovina, including stay options, in the link below:
To Conclude...
No, it’s never the whole country, or the whole community that should be judged for the deeds of a fraction of the population. I have realised, there are only two types of people in this world - good and bad - in every country, every community, every ethnicity.
Though I have tried to avoid the horrors of the war in my posts on Bosnia & Herzegovina, the fact remains that you cannot ignore them. It’s all over the place, bullet and shell marks on buildings, not only in Sarajevo but even in the other smaller towns. There are sign boards, memorials, museums that won’t let you forget or ignore the difficult past. Even this famous Mostar bridge actually separates the society, literally. This war was considered one of the most violent and cruellest wars of modern times post WWII. And well, it was. My version would be, it was a shame on the sanctity of human existence. Any war, every war. Evil never dies, it pops up with different faces in every decade.
But I chose to show the brighter side of life, because Bosnia and Herzegovina is much more than the Bosnian war. It deserves to be known for everything other than the war; its natural beauty, its wonderful people, its unique and delicious cuisine, its picturesque places etc.
Once you are there; in the place, with the people, you know what a prejudiced world it is! Wishing eternal peace and love for the beautiful souls of this country.
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