Off the Beaten Path : Saronic Gulf Islands
- Paulami Basu
- Apr 11
- 8 min read
Updated: 5 days ago
Europe has gleefully welcomed spring, and in the blink of an eye, summer will arrive. Only to disappear with the next blink. Summer in Europe is truly a blink-and-miss season!
Come summer and nearly all of Europe seems to be on the move, either cruising down highways, hopping from one country to another, or crowding airports, to catch a flight to their favorite seaside escape. And when it comes to the sea, the first country that comes to the mind of the world is – Greece!
To all Greece lovers, it's time to take a pause and stop obsessing over Santorini. Believe me, Greece has so much more to offer than just Santorini and Mykonos, the two most popular and often overrated islands. They're undeniably gorgeous, and maybe one day I will be there too. But if you are an advocate of the road less travelled and have a penchant for the lesser-known, less crowded destinations that offer a more authentic vibe, then head to the Saronic Gulf Islands.
I am sure these islands are well known too, but the world is far less enthusiastic about them. These islands are also ideal for those who aren’t comfortable with long ferry rides across the open sea, or for anyone looking to test the waters with a shorter ride before committing to a longer journey. Incidentally, my husband and I fall into this category, which is why this shorter ferry ride was perfect for us.
Welcome to the Saronic Gulf Islands - a cluster of stunning Greek islands just a stone’s throw away from Athens. Often defeated by the allure of the more famous Cyclades, these islands offer the charm of traditional Greece, minus the overwhelming crowds.
A perfect vacation getaway where life moves at its own gentle pace. After months of hard work, this is all we truly seek, isn’t it? Imagine an escape where the blue Aegean Sea sparkles under the sun, where time slows to a peaceful rhythm, and where history, culture, and nature blend seamlessly, giving you a sense of freedom and enchantment, at the same time.
Poros – A Green Gem of Tranquility
Separated from the Peloponnesian coast by a narrow strait, Poros is an island of pine forests, neoclassical houses, and hidden coves. Poros will always hold a special place in my heart for a rather unexpected reason. It’s the only place in the world, so far, where I lost my phone for the first time in my life. Luckily, I got it back. I had simply left it at the bike rental office. Pure luck!
Poros was a short stay for us. It was an intentional choice keeping the size of the island in mind. If I had to describe it in a phrase, it would be ‘cute and charming’. Almost circular in shape, the island's main attractions are conveniently close to one another. When we arrived, part of the island was still recovering from forest fires, leaving some roads blocked. The island flaunts an appreciable green cover.
Two days should be enough to discover the island. We rented a bike and rode around the island, and that turned out to be the most fun part of our Poros experience! Adding to the experience was the thrill of driving along winding cliffside roads, with the stunning blue bay stretching out in the distance.
We chose a boutique stay – Hotel Dionysos - in an old mansion converted to a hotel. With the view of the port, and a large room to go back to, the classic vibes of the hotel made our stay special. When it comes to food, Greek cuisine is unmatchable. We didn’t advance book any restaurant for dinner, instead thought to just walk-in to one of the most popular restaurants – Oasis Taverna.
The restaurant was chock-o-block and we instantly regretted not booking in advance. To make matters worse, we were starving, and the mere thought of starting the decision-making process all over again - where to go and what to eat - left me feeling woozy.
But it was very kind and nice of the staff to not only receive us with a genuine smile, which was comforting enough for this hungry soul, but also accommodate us. They found a needle in the hay! And food! Greek Kleftiko. Don’t ask me about it, you have to experience it yourself to understand what happens when all your senses awaken at the mere touch of a bite, almost as if it were sent from heaven. Remember the name, Kleftiko.
The biggest surprise on this tiny island is its oldest quarter - best explored on foot. We wandered through a maze of charming alleys, climbed endless stairs, admiring the old world charm all around us until we finally reached the Clock Tower. Expect some stunning views of the bay from the top. Only then did I realise just how far we had come!
Poros is perfect for those seeking a short romantic getaway. I may as well call it a cute island with just the right balance of things to do and the joy of doing nothing at all.
Agistri: Greece’s Best-Kept Secret
And I wish it remains a secret. Because let some places be saved from over-tourism.
Agistri is more tranquil than we could have expected or imagined. It is a charming little island in the Saronic Gulf, known for its crystal-clear waters, and pine-covered hills. With its relaxed vibe, quaint villages, and peaceful beaches, Agistri offers a more authentic Greek island experience than any other place.
It is a place for a quiet, romantic getaway, don’t expect the humdrum of night life here. Whether you're cycling along scenic trails, enjoying a quiet swim, or savouring fresh seafood by the shore, Agistri provides a serene retreat that feels worlds away from the hustle and bustle.
Frames of Agistri
The beaches are not crowded, you can have the whole beach to yourself. The water is sheer love in the hue of turquoise. The little town ends as soon as it starts, with the road flanked by many cafes and cozy restaurants, with no dearth of choices. Taking a stroll at night becomes a romantic experience – a calming silence, dimly lit streets, the gentle sound of waves crashing to your right, by the shore, restaurants exuding warmth and charm, all wrapped in a soft, salty breeze that feels like the perfect finishing touch.
We chose a boutique stay – Hotel Saronis – oozing Greek vibes in white and blue. We loved the hotel for its rustic charm, but were eventually enamoured by their friendly staff, great service and delicious food. Just a 2 minutes’ walk from the Skala port, and right at the heart of tiny town, I did not find another hotel as charming as this one.
Aponisos: A Dream in Turquoise
Now let me unveil the secret gem of Agistri - the tiny, magical island of Aponisos. A dream painted in shades of turquoise, unlike anything I have experienced before. It’s the kind of place that invites you to lose track of time, whether for a day or a few. While options to stay overnight are limited, the charm of Aponisos lingers long after you leave.
At Aponisos, there's only one feeling: 'Oh time, please stand still.' If only life could stay this beautiful for just a few more days. Lying lazily on a beach bed, eyes lost in the dreamy turquoise, taking a dip now and then, soaking in the summer sun, summoning food at the press of a button. Watching a peacock strut by in all its colourful grace, while you are engrossed in your own little world - with a book, a thought, or whatever defines you.
Aponisos is the hidden bonus you are rewarded with when you choose to explore Agistri. Did my words sound tempting enough to make you want to pack your bags?"
Aegina – The Island of Pistachios & Temples
Just 40 minutes from Athens by ferry, Aegina is a delightful mix of history and culinary wonders. Famous for its pistachios, this island is a paradise for food lovers. A visit to the Temple of Aphaia, an ancient marvel older than the Parthenon, will transport you back to Greece’s golden age. Stroll along the charming waterfront, explore the colorful fish market, the old town quarters and end the day with a seafood feast at a taverna by the sea.
Aegina can be a short stay of couple of days or even a day trip, the choice is yours.
Hydra – Where Time Stands Still
And I kept the best for the last – Hydra – where time stands still!
Hydra is a vehicle-free island! The only motorized vehicle I spotted was a garbage van. For everything else, it’s either mules, hand-drawn carts, or boats. What does it sound – crazy or cool?
Hydra is the perfect escape from the hustle bustle of modern life, a sun-kissed gem that feels like something straight out of a dream. With its picturesque beauty and tranquil atmosphere, it’s easy to see why this island has captivated artists and writers for generations, including the legendary Leonard Cohen, who made it his home in the 1960s. His whitewashed house, still in the possession of his family, stands as a quiet tribute to the verses that came to life within its walls. It’s no surprise that Hydra has earned the affectionate nickname ‘Leonard Cohen’s island’.
But Cohen was not alone in seeking Hydra’s spell. The island’s winding alleys and luminous seas have called to many: Charmian Clift, George Johnston, Henry Miller, Lawrence Durrell, Axel Jensen, Marianne Ihlen, Polly Samson, Giorgos Seferis, Clémence de Biéville and countless others who found on Hydra the rhythm, solitude, and light that only a true artist’s haven can offer.
An island of grand stone mansions, winding alleys draped in vibrant bougainvillea, and breathtaking sea views from the hilltops, Hydra is nothing short of poetry in motion, or in stillness!
In Hydra we chose a charming boutique stay, Mastoris Mansion. It was a charming and cozy abode, perfectly mirroring the island’s artistic spirit. To be honest, Hydra does lean a bit on the pricier side compared to some of the other Saronic Gulf islands, but the experience is priceless.
There isn’t a long list of things to “do” on Hydra. You might hike up to the Prophet Elias Monastery for a sweeping, soul-stirring view of the island. Or step into the quiet halls of the Historical Archive Museum of Hydra, or experience the timeworn grace of the Lazaros Koundouriotis Mansion. You might also find yourself wandering through flower-lined, whitewashed alleys, blooming bright, speaking in silent whispers, or simply sipping a coffee at the harbour, watching the world drift by in a dreamlike hush.
Walk a little farther to the Kamini Fishing Shelter, where the sky turns into a vibrant canvas during sunset. There are no dearth of pubs and restaurants to sit back and watch the magic unfold. And not to miss the many beaches that you can explore too, but Hydra is not exactly a beachy destination. Mostly water boats can take you to some beaches on the other side of the island.
The Hydra Book Club, the inspired creation of American writer and literary curator Josh Hickey, is nothing short of a pilgrimage for literature lovers. Each September and October, a thoughtfully curated collection, handpicked by Hickey himself, is exhibited on the top floor of the Historical Archive Museum of Hydra. I was fortunate enough to arrive both informed and in season, and left with a pack of treasures that now sit proudly on my shelf.
But what I wanted to specially highlight is that you can complete checking all the attractions in two days or less, and yet your soul will ask for more. Because you can never get enough of this beauty.
As the great poet, Kenneth Koch, who too spent summers in Hydra during the 1960s, puts it: “Once you’ve lived on Hydra you can’t live anywhere else, including Hydra.”
To wrap up
In the end, the Saronic Gulf Islands are more than mere destinations; they are a living canvas of Greece's soul, where the past and present entwine in perfect harmony. To visit these islands is to experience a timeless dance with history, nature, and the spirit of the Aegean, leaving one's heart forever anchored in the gentle embrace of their tranquil beauty.
If you’re planning a Greek island adventure, skip the usual suspects and sail into the Saronic Gulf, where Greece’s best-kept secrets are waiting to be explored!